People I cant believe I didn’t get a photo – Today I saw the most awesome wave – this thing must have been 10 ft tall and looked like it was going to kill someone. One lucky surfer had managed to get on top of it but the rest of the surf spawn were just paddling in awe.
I know its only a wave but for in the uk thats huge killer surf – waves that big are very rare and you remember them for a heck of a long time if surfing is in your blood like mine – I swear I was born in the water and I will die in the water – I will be surfing when I am 60.
